![]() ![]() To make this, we cold draw medical-grade stainless steel (that’s the kind you’d find in an injection needle) to yield a thin-walled tube. Tiny, ultra-quiet 5V fan and step down board includedĪ key component of Revo Nozzles is a stainless steel tube.Aluminium construction with black anodised finish.Small, lightweight design allows you to squeeze more speed performance from your motion system.Occupies less space inside your 3D printer than a conventional HotEnd.Let’s explore what we’ve been working on… Revo cold sides come in all shapes and sizes to suit a variety of use cases. No crispy bacon fingers from touching hot metal. But cold nozzle swaps and no more hot tightening? We think this justifies it completely! No need to find spanners or other tools to change a nozzle. Inevitably, this comes with trade-offs: our older ecosystems lose compatibility with Revo stuff due to the cold side having a longer and wider hole to accommodate each Revo Nozzle. This means you can make nozzle changes using just your fingers – a huge advantage!Ĭhanging a V6 nozzle vs changing a Revo Nozzle on a Prusa MK3S ![]() Revo works differently: the HeatBreak has been integrated into the nozzle, so you can avoid hot tightening completely. ![]() Our older V6 ecosystem used a separate nozzle and HeatBreak, which would screw into either side of a heaterblock to form a hot side. We sink hundreds of man hours into validating everything we design to keep the risk of heatcreep to a minimum, so you can enjoy perfectly consistent extrusion with every 3D print!Ī small lip at the base of each Revo cold side allows you to clip on a Revo HeaterCore retention spring. In the worst case, you won’t be able to print at all and will have a clogged HeatBreak to replace. In the best case scenario, heat creep will leave your 3D print looking fugly and inconsistent. Too much heat travelling up the cold side causes extrusion issues. We’ve also experimented with water-cooled cold sides in the past, but for most situations we find the most effective cooling method is air: it’s cheap, it’s everywhere, and it doesn’t damage electronics when it leaks. Most HotEnd designs use air cooling, where a heatsink and fan draw away any heat that’s built up in the cold side. Some heat will invariably find its way into the cold side, and if it isn’t dissipated it will build up.īudget HotEnds on the market may be able to dissipate heat, but the question is: do they do it effectively? Dissipating heat from the cold side is a dark art. We do this because these metals have very low thermal conductivity, so less heat will conduct up into the HotEnd’s cold side. We make our HeatBreaks out of stainless steel or titanium. So, it’s important to have a cold side that can dissipate the heat from the hot side well.Įvery HotEnd has a hot side and a cold side If backflowing happens, this means extruder jams, print failures, machine downtime, frustration, and rage. Its primary function is to stop molten filament backflowing up the HotEnd’s filament path. This is where material is heated and pushed through a nozzle – an essential part of FFF 3D printing.īut without a cold side, it would be difficult to 3D print anything at all! The cold side is the part of the HotEnd that mounts on your 3D printer. The most well-known part of a HotEnd is the hot side. These are separated by a ‘ HeatBreak’, which does two things: it mechanically joins and thermally separates the two halves. Revo Hemera, Revo Micro, Revo Six, and Revo Voron cold sidesĬlassic HotEnds like the E3D V6 can be thought of in two halves: a ‘hot side’ and a ‘cold side’. ![]()
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