![]() ![]() ![]() His name is well known among informed collectors, many of whom were introduced to his work when he designed a capsule collection for Sotheby’s Diamonds in 2020. These days, his work is sold exclusively through his Hong Kong gallery, where he personally meets with clients, who come from near and far. “I fell in love with them immediately because of the shape and there’s no table, so I could set them flush in a ring.” He made a pair of gray gold rings, with the diamonds flush against the metal, creating a distinctly discreet yet striking style. “I look for diamonds with a soul, stones that are different, slightly imperfect, and some are old.” An example is a recently acquired pair of light yellow and brown round diamonds with hexagonal facets by an artisan Japanese cutter. He uses unique diamond cuts and colors-warm brown marquise-shaped and twinkling rose-cuts-set in his signature rhodium-plated, sandblasted matte gold in a grayish hue. He’s stripped diamond jewelry of its fussiness and formality and is emphasizing clean shapes with matte finishes, and subtle sparkle. It’s an evolution of Lieou’s work, which more recently featured shiny gold and diamonds in more fluid, organic shapes. He avoids traditional prong settings instead, diamonds appear invisibly secured or floating in metal pieces. A square ring with a round diamond center is framed with a skinny line of baguette diamonds around the edges a sculpted gold ring features a brown diamond perched between undulating waves of gold. The result is a fusion of East and West in sleek, graphic designs each piece is an exercise in restraint. His refined designs are informed, he says, by his Chinese culture and international upbringing. On a visit last month, Lieou unveiled his new designs, sparsely displayed on long vintage woodworking tables, one that he uncovered in New York, and another on a trip to Japan. Minimalist diamond designs with maximalist appeal It’s a sharp contrast to most Hong Kong fine jewelry houses, which are located on the other side of town in the city’s Central district. “The white space lets clients really focus on just the jewelry and craftsmanship,” he said. Lieou’s stark personal style is reflected in his new jewelry gallery, a sprawling loft space with blank white walls overlooking the city’s fisherman’s port. He’s also attracted their symbolism: “People often buy diamonds to mark a milestone so they can remember that moment with something meaningful and lasting.” “I’m drawn to diamonds because they have life and light,” the Hong Kong-based jewelry designer exclusively told Only Natural Diamonds. His style signifiers-two graphic diamond rings, one was gift to himself on his 40 th birthday-shows he also likes a little sparkle. Nicholas Lieou has a minimalist signature style, with his uniform of black shirts and trousers, white Adidas sneakers, and clean-shaven head. A visit with one of Hong Kong’s most coveted jewelers. ![]()
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